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In many cases, there are only a few things that can go wrong, varying from the simplest of simple to the complex and expensive...and a few items in between. Looking for the simplest solution first is not just a good economical tactic, but essential in proper diagnostics.
Some of the simple items that should be checked first are the battery connections for tightness and cleanliness. If the battery cables are loose and/or dirty, this will cause a poor connection and will limit the necessary voltage from traveling from the battery to the starter motor. Don't forget to look at both positive and negative connections, as well as the connections at the starter.
Next, I would test the battery itself. A weak battery may have enough energy to light your lights and play the radio, but not enough to turn the starter motor.
Now for some of the in-between stuff! There really isn't much left in the starting circuit other than the battery cables themselves and the starter motor itself. Performing a voltage drop test is the best way to find a faulty battery cable. A sticking bendix inside the starter will cause the starter to just click, and sometimes a slight tap with the handle end of a small hammer is enough to jar it loose. If it does start, don't be lured into a false sense of security. The starter will need to be replaced, as this condition will occur again and will not fix itself.
And probably one of the most catastrophic conditions that would cause a "click" is a seized engine. This is typically caused from hydro-lock (the ingestion of water into the combustion chamber) or oil starvation. Either scenario will require the rebuild or replacement of the engine itself.
While the easy and simple stuff is considered routine maintenance issues, the more catastrophic issues are usually avoidable.
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