Ask Pete

[#1]

I recently had the opportunity to take one of my vehicles into a dealership for routine service and to handle a recall notice I had received from the manufacturer. I knew from the start that it was going to be a trying experience.

As soon as I parked my vehicle, the service consultant ran his hands on one of my front tires and stated, "You need a wheel alignment." I thought to myself, "Okay, here it comes!" When I told him I was there for a routine service and a recall notice, he proceeded to convince me that my 16,000-mile, two-year-old vehicle was in need of a fuel injector service.

Here is where I thought I would have some fun! I asked the gentlemen to justify why I needed these additional services, especially because the manufacturer did not recommend them at that time. After he stuttered for a bit, he showed me a printed copy of the repair order and told me, "Sign here."

I examined the repair order for what seemed to be an eternity. This service advisor was so committed to "up-sell" me that he didn't put the things on the repair order that I had originally come in for. I wish you could have seen the look on his face when I declined to sign it and told him that it was not what we discussed, but rather what he discussed. I proceeded to tell him that I didn't need a wheel alignment, and that what he felt on my tires was cornering wear and to just go ahead and rotate them. I further explained that I didn't need a fuel injector service, and that he was in violation of Florida Statute 559 by instructing me exactly where to sign—specifically the line that states, "I do not request a written estimate."

Something many consumers forget is that a repair order from any place of repair is a legal binding contract. If the repairs you want performed aren't on the order, don't sign it! Similarly, if repairs are on the order that you did not discuss, don't sign it!

By taking an extra three minutes to review the repair order before you sign, it will not only ensure you are getting exactly what you need done on your car, but it can also save you from unnecessary aggravation and wasted money in the long run.

[#2]

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS ARTICLE! A lot of times because I am a woman they don't think I know what they are talking about when it comes to my vehicle, but after having a car for 10 years, I should know something about it and make sure no one is trying to do anything extra. Again thank you for this!

[#3]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback!

[#4]

I have a 2001 Mazda Miata that I think runs very hard.  Whenever it is in drive especially it vibrates a lot.  We have a service plan that covers repairs and any time I mention how I think it vibrates too much (it wasn't this bad when we bought it a year and a half ago) they tell me it is fine and there is nothing wrong with it.  We get the oil changed every 3000 miles so I mention it everytime I am there.  I think they are tired of me and just ignore me now.  What do you think it might be?  IS it normal for a small car like this to vibrate so much?  Thanks for your advice.

[#5]

There are two things you can do. First, understand that extended warranties (service plans), are accepted pretty much at any repair facility. I wouldn't feel obligated to remain at one place especially if they are not taking your concerns seriously. I would also do your homework and look at a like year and mileage vehicle and evaluate its vibration (or the lack there of). If it is similar then maybe it is a normal operating characteristic of the vehicle. If it does not have a vibration you are then better prepared when you talk to the next service advisor. I suspect based on your description that you may have some weak engine or transmission mountings. Just a thought!     

[#6]

Hi, Pete -

How much should I reasonably expect to pay to repair a hot/cold blend door motor for a '96 Grand Marquis?  My mechanic says there is an easy way and a hard way (re man hrs./labor) depending on the year and model.  And he "can't remember which my car is until he gets the dash opened up."  That's a red flag to me that means - expect to pay the higher rate regardless.

Thanks,

Matt S.

[#7]

The blend door motor itself is about $75 and if your car has ATC or automatic temperature control book time is about 5.2 hours. If it does not have ATC book time is down to about 4 hours. So with ATC will be under $600 and without will be around $350

[#8]

I have a 99 Mercury LS with ATC and the heater blend door is not working.  The dealer told me it would cost about $800 to replace it as the dash has to be removed.  I had been a mechanic and still have my roll away with all my tools and a repair manual on the car.  Is it possible for me to tackle the job myself without too much trouble or could I run into some problems along the way.  I am retired and have an other car so I could take my time on the job.

Thank you

Don R.

[#9]

Pete,

I own a 2004 Honda CR-V with 40,000 miles on it. I try to keep up with regular maintenance.  I recently took it in for an oil change and the dealer's 27 point inspection suggested a few additional things that were needed.   Two of them I agreed to have done (front brakes and adjusting the emergency brake).  Two other things suggested (an additional $400 of work) I declined to have done.  One was a tune-up - the service advisor said it should be done at 7 years or 90,000 miles - my vehicle is 6 years old with 40,000 miles on it.  The other service was cleaning the fuel system.  I've owned several cars and to my knowledge have never needed to have the fuel system cleaned.  He said I didn't need to have these things done right now but should definately think about having them done soon.  Any advice about the suggested tune-up or fuel system cleaning? 

[#10]

Don R., Without knowing how up to date you are on some of the newer stuff it is tough for me to answer. I don't know your technical ability! If you feel comfortable doing the job then go for it. The biggest pain is remembering where everything goes so if you have a way to document your disassembly it would work to your benefit. The repair manual will help with some of the diagnostic procedures so ensure the moor truly is bad and not just bound up or perhaps a faulty controller. Good luck!  

[#11]

chinalady, good going by trusting your instincts! Even though you half half the average miles per year, I wouldn't consider changing the spark plugs (basic ingredient in a "tune up") until around 75,000. As far as the fuel system service is concerned, if the vehicle goes dormant for extended periods of time you may want to consider it down the road but as long as it is driven routinely and you use a good grade/brand fuel, I would let that go as well.  

[#12]

Hi Pete,

I have had nothing but problems with a 2001 S80 Volvo 2.9. I still owe $5400 on it & want to know if I should just roll it over in a new loan or keep it until paid off.

I'm also paying for previous repairs and now I'm told it needs a fan-clutch assembly & an O2 sensor. Does the misery ever end on this car?

[#13]

MRAD0408,

I looking  at trade in value yes, you are upside down but in looking at private party value, you are close to break even depending on the vehicle's overall condition. In other words if you can swing it financially, sell your vehicle out right and then get another vehicle. You may have to subsidize the deal but that would be better than  rolling the balance over another 5 or 6 year loan.