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Tangier—To urist Trap or Not?
Rick Steves says, “I used to call Tangier the Tijuana of Africa. But that has changed. The difference, as you'll see when you visit is breathtaking. The place is still exotic...but likeably exotic.” And I agree with Rick’s assessment.
Tangier, Morocco sits on the north coast of Africa near the Strait of Gibraltar in a spectacular Mediterranean coastal setting. For much of the first half of the 20th century, Tangier was an International Zone and a hotbed of intrigue and hedonistic excesses. In the 1940s and early 1950s, the city was a playground for eccentric millionaires and a meeting place for secret agents and thieves.
Tangier was the favorite home of Barbara Hutton, the Woolworth heiress and “poor little rich girl,” and Forbes magazine publisher Malcolm Forbes. Intrigue and romance were everywhere and Tangier became known as a place where all goods, whether legal or illegal, could be bought or sold. Tangier was the real model for the movie Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. But Tangier began to decline when it was returned to Morocco in 1956. It became a dirty, shabby, aggressive tourist trap, much like Tijuana.
But this decline is now reversing under Morocco's progressive king, Mohammed VI, who is modernizing the country and promoting Tangier as a tourist destination. As part of that promotion, he established the brigade touristique (tourist police) to help crack down on Tangier’s legendary hustlers; however, the city is still not quite hassle free. But if you explore Tangier knowing what to expect and how to handle the hustlers, you’ll find it a likable, lively place.Most Western tourists visit Tangier on a day-trip from Spain. If you go, you need to remember that everyone is trying to make money in Tangier. A guided tour is common for Western tourists who quickly discover that their guide is steering them to shops, restaurants, hucksters and street performers who provide the guide with kick-back commissions. The tourists are “guided” to specific restaurants, carpet and souvenir shops, and souk vendors, all while being assured that they’re visiting the best places in town with the best prices.
The tourists are also guided to colorful but obviously staged “Kodak moments,” including snake charmers, belly dancers, camel handlers and Atlas mountain tribal musicians. If you take a photo, these performers expect to be paid for taking their picture. Remember, everyone is trying to make money in Tangier!
Even though things are improving, Tangier can be a bit overwhelming. You’ll still see many Western tourists walking in a tight group, clutching their purses nervously until they get back on the ferry to Spain. I will admit that I was a bit uneasy and on guard when I was in Tangier too, but yet…I really enjoyed it.
Would I recommend a visit? I think a day trip could be a fascinating adventure for anyone. But I also don’t think the average Western tourist would enjoy staying in Tangier for very long. It’s romantic and exotic, but also a bit uncomfortable.
You’ll either love it or hate it.
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